Lugo, Italy
Lugo’s authentic beauty lies not only in its deep history born of Roman origins and its cultural splendor, but also in the bottomless warmth of its people who welcome strangers with an open heart.
the scoop…
Lugo…
Lugo is the home of my cherished long time friend, Laura. This is where she was born and raised, as were her sister, her mother and her grandmother before her. To this day Lugo continues to be her home where she remains deeply connected. This fueled my desire to learn more of Lugo and its rich history. So I went to discover Lugo, a little gem of a north central Italian town born so very long ago.
Lugo is located in north central Italy not far from the Adriatic Sea. It lies within the region of Emilia-Romagna, one of the most well established cultural and economic centers in the country. Notably, Emilia-Romagna encompasses the Province of Ravenna, one of Italy’s deeply historically rich regions. The capital of this region is the stunning city of Ravenna, a UNESCO world heritage site. Ravenna is well known for its late Roman and Byzantine architecture and extraordinary well preserved Byzantine mosaics, which are among the worlds most important examples of early Christian art. It contains the magnificent 6th century Basilica di SanVitale, located in the heart of Ravenna’s old city, housing many breathtaking mosaics which are a premier example of Byzantine architecture. Ravenna is also the final resting place of Dante Alighieri, (author of the Divine Comedy). You can visit his tomb, located just inside the old city, very close to many other historic monuments. Ravenna hosts 8 UNESCO listed monuments reknown for their significance to Christian art and architecture. A visit to this city, the capital of the Western Roman Empire in the 5th century, is just a 30 minute drive from Lugo.
In Lugo you find quaint narrow and cobbled city streets lined with small interesting local shops, cafes, restaurants and deeply historic buildings. Lugo is a town where critical and significant traces of Roman civilization still remain. In the recent past they discovered an established Roman settlement dating back to ~800 AD right in the heart of Lugo. Today there are multiple archeological digs in Lugo where they continue to discover many artifacts confirming Lugo’s ancient origins and habitation dating all the way back to the Neolithic Age (10,000 - 3,000 BC).
Lugo, as in most Italian cities, towns and villages has a deep cultural heritage and is home to many significant historical sites. Here in Lugo, there is the iconic Rocca Estense Castle, a well preserved medieval fortress built in the 13th century, having served as a strategic military stronghold and symbol of local governance and power. It is a great mix of medieval and renaissance architecture, rebuilt and restored over the centuries which now serves as Lugo’s library and multi-cultural site for local events and festivals.
Then there is Teatro Rossini Communale, Lugo’s small intimate and alluring Opera House. This is a beautiful theater, named for the composer Giochimo Rossini, who you may know of from his popular operas, “The Barber of Seville” and “William Tell”. This theatre dates back to the early 19th century and is chock full of charm, warmth, beauty and cultural significance. Thankfully, Teatro Rossini with its stunning neoclassical design continues to live on today promoting the arts, hosting concerts, plays and cultural events throughout the year. Nearby is the small Church of San Francesco di Paola which is a delight. Famously known for its simple and elegant neo-Gothic style dating back to the 13th century it hosts an impressive facade and houses precious frescoes and artworks from various periods in history. It is considered an important landmark, again reflecting the rich textured history and culture of Lugo.
When visiting Lugo I learned the history of their hometown hero, and Italy’s most celebrated WWI ace fighter pilot, Francesco Baracca. He remarkably achieved 34 confirmed aerial combat victories from 1915 unril his tragic death in 1918 when his fighter plane was shot down while engaged in aeerial combat over Italy. He was only 30 years old at the time of his death and his legacy continues to live on due to the lasting impact of his great sacrifice to Italy’s WW1 war effort and his Lugo hometown roots. Lugo’s historic town square is named and dedicated to his memory (Piazza Francesco Baracca) and contains a stunning bronze statue of Baracca sitting tall and proud on horseback. It is considered to be a masterpiece of Italian artistry created by the sculptor Domenico Rambelli, and erected to commemorate Baracca’s many contributions to the Italian air force.
The Piazza Baracca is a deeply historical landmark, blending the town’s medieval past and present day modern life. The Piazza is a public square, central meeting place and cultural hub for locals and tourists alike, hosting bars, cafes, restaurants, concerts, festivals and local markets. The Piazza is circled by the impressive, Pavaglione. This is a distinctive historic structure with an arched portico walkway and covered marketplace, providing welcomed shade in the hot and humid summer days, as well as protection from the weather in the rainy, cold and foggy days of winter. This charming architecture encompassing the Piazza dates back to the 18th century and it was built for the flourishing silk worm market of that time. The Piazza is also surrounded by historic buildings like the Palazzo Comunale, currently Lugo’s town hall and considered an architectural gem of this region.
Another go-to is the Francesco Baracca Museum, dedicated to his memory and home to a WW1 fighter plane, military uniforms, medals, personal artifacts and a deep dive into the Baracca family history. It also contains an interesting exhibit that tells the story behind Baracca’s prancing horse emblem, the “Cavallino Rampante”, which was found prominently featured on the fuselage of Baracca’s planes. It is the very same emblem that inspired the well known Ferrari logo and is typically found on Ferrari manufactured cars, prominenly featured on the front grille and steering wheel. Then for me, an intriguing fact related to the building that houses the Baracca Museum is that it was once a secondary school (scuole medie),“Giovanni Pascoli,” where my friend Laura went to school as a teenager.
Where to stay in Lugo while exploring all its glory? For me, it would be the historic and very charming Hotel Ala d’Oro. Located right in the heart of Lugo’s historic district this little gem of a hotel dates back to the 17th century. It is positioned within easy walking distance of the La Rocca Estense Castle, and the Piazza Francesco Baracca. It has an undeniably warm vibe, and a wonderful in-house restaurant (Ristorante Ala d’Oro) known for its handmade first courses, and authentic northern Italian cuisine. This restaurant has been called “exquisite” and I can wholeheartedly attest to their great locally sourced and delicious meals. The hotel has an interesting history as it was originally the former home of the Conti Rossi family, who were one of the most important aristocratic families in Lugo.
As you know it is virtually impossible to highlight any one village, town, city or region in Italy without speaking of their deeply traditional foods, local culinary favorites and regional wines. In Lugo, as well as the entire region of Emilia-Romagna, there is a deep historic culinary heritage. This region has been referred to as the “culinary heart of Italy”. When eating here in the north central region of Italy, whether from a fresh market stall, a trattoria, osteria, cafe or restaurant you will have a true culinary adventure. There are so many wonderful dishes here, it is difficult to highlight just one, but if I had to pick a favorite it would be the local dish called Tortelli di Zucca. I love this dish, a sweet and savory offering of homemade fresh egg pasta filled with creamy pumpkin (zucca), mixed with local parmesan and speckled with spices of mild sspiced variations that change from town to town. This dish and many other local dishes have a direct historic culinary link to Italy’s past, when Italian cooks transformed the local and seasonally available ingredients into something truly spectacular.
Here are a just a few notable culinary favorites and wines from Lugo and this region…
Pastas:
Tagliarelle al Ragu: Flat ribbon like egg pasta, served with a rich and savory ragu made of beef and pork.
Tortelli di Zucca: Egg pasta ravioli filled with creamy pumpkin, cheese and spices.
Cappelletti di Barbacca: Small hat shaped pasta, stuffed with meat, cheese and/or vegetables.
Meats:
Prosciutto di Parma: Delicate dry, cured ham with a sweet flavor and a buttery texture.
Mortadella: Cured meat made from finely ground pork with pieces of pork fat peeking throughout flavored with distinctive spices.
Ciccioli: Pork scraps cooked until crispy and slightly spicy. Great as a snack or topping for salads.
Cheese:
Parmigiano-Reggiano, the king of Italian cheese! Familiar to most, this is an aged hard crumbly cheese with a rich savory flavor, that intensifies with age. It has a long history dating back to the Middle Ages and today still follows the same traditional production methods.
Bread:
Piadina: A very special bread, a thin round flatbread cooked on a griddle and often filled with a variety of savory and/or sweet ingredients like cold cuts, soft cheese, arugula, tomatoes, nutella…
Desserts:
Torta Barozzi: A specialty of Lugo, commonly served during local festivals, holidays and family gatherings. This is a rich moist buttery flavored cake with fillings of nuts, jams, custard, seasonal fruits and chocolate.
Torta di Riso: A rice cake with a lemony zest, flavored with rum and/or vanilla.
Zuppa Inglese: Layers of soft spongy cake laced with custard and chocolate and soaked in liqueur.
Clambella: A ring shaped cake that sort of looks like a doughnut. Flavored with orange or lemon zest and layered with ricotta or pastry cream.
Vinegar:
Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena: Aged for a minimum of 12 years and up to 25 years and longer in wooden barrels of chestnut and mulberry oak.
Wines:
Lambrusco: A sparkling red wine from dry to sweet, known for its fruity and bubbly character. Lugo lies in the heart of Lambrusco country.
Sangiovese: Commonly associated with Tuscany, but also grown in Emilia-Romagna. I would say this red is a true local favorite, ranging from light and fruity to more robust and tannic. It’s Laura’s favorite!
Trebbiano Romagnolo: A dry white wine, light, fresh and crisp, this one is my favorite!
Always more to know and to discover, but I hope this little snapshot of Lugo, RA will entice you to go and experience its authenticity, history, culture, food, wine, and above all its lovely, warm and loving people.
