The scoop…

Terceira…the lilac island

”Mui Nobre, Leal and Semper Constante”

(noble, loyal and always faithful)

Terceira is beautiful. It is take your breath away beautiful. It is known by many as the lilac island due to the abundance of softly colored pastel flowers that come in shades of blue and pink. Hydrangeas and lilacs flood the Island in spring, summer and fall, and inTerceira’s temperate climate you will find something blooming even in winter. Terceira Island houses and buildings only add to this nature’s palette of soft colors, as many are painted in multiple hues of pastels. A feast for the eyes.

About Terceira… It is a volcanic island nestled within the central Azorean archipelago of Portugal in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. It lies about 1000 miles west of mainland Portugal, It is home to ~55,000 year round residents and is the third largest and the second most important of the 9 islands in the Azores. Discovered in the 15th century by the Portuguese, Terceira has always played a starring role in navigational history due to its unique strategic location in the Atlantic Ocean. The Portuguese staunchly rebuked the Spanish in their multiple attempts to dominate and claim the island for their own. The Spanish were consistently defeated except for just one short period in time (1583 to 1640), when the Spanish successfully occupied Terceira. They were eventually expelled from the Island and Terceira’s allegiance to Portugal was firmly restored. Today Terceira and all of the Azores remain staunchly, completely and proudly Portuguese. The people of Terceira will proudly tell you that they love their magnificent Island and are especially honored that their treasured capital city of Angra do Heroismo became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1983.

The economy in Terceira is primarily about tourism, agriculture and the minions of “happy cows” and the many dairy products that are produced from these beautiful carefree creatures. Cows in Terceira languish in the great green outdoors all the year long and enjoy a privileged and protected life on the Island. They are named by their owners, loved and valued by everyone. Have you ever eaten Mini Babybel cheeses? You know, they are the little round bites of mild, creamy and slightly nutty cheese that come wrapped in colored parafin wax. They usually come in a netted bag and can be found in most grocery stores. If so, then you may have had a taste of the Azores, as it is the milk from the happy cows on the Azorean islands that go into making this cheese, as well as cow’s milk originating in France, and the Netherlands. Most everywhere you go, around every corner and wandering in the narrow winding streets outside of the city you will see these happy Azorean cows grazing. To say that this Island and all of the Azorean Islands are the kinder, gentler keeper of cows and of all things in nature would be an understatement.

So, what are some of the go-to things to see and do on Terceira, both on and off the beaten track? Here there is something for everyone, except those looking for Las Vegas “esque” activities. They are not to be found here in Terceira.

A few of my favorite go-to’s worth checking out. The charming small seafront town of Biscoitos is certain to pull you in. It put a spell on me. It lies on the wild and savage north coast of the Island where the winds wax in wild and crazy ways, creating dramatic waves that crash against the lava strewn shore. These waves are known to reach heights of 40+ feet on a windy and gusty day. Biscoitos is also host to coves and beaches containing natural volcanic rock swimming pools, and incredibly beautiful coastal hiking trails on lava laden paths. It is also know for its vineyards and wine production. It is a quiet authentic beautiful northern coastal village.

Then there is the historic and beautiful seafront UNESCO city of Angra do Heroismo. It is a historic city , rich in history, chock full of cafés, bakeries, traditional restaurants with wonderful fresh seafood, fresh markets and of course the obligatory shops selling locally sourced goods. In Angra you walk on well placed cobblestoned sidewalks and streets, as you eyes feast upon the pastel colored buildings, and majestic views of the sea. You can walk along well placed seaside paths and hike up one or more of the many trails of Monte Brazil (located right alongside the city of Angra). I recommend taking advantage of a sunny day to plan a day trip to hike or walk along the many trails of Monte Brazil. It is the perfect occasion to pack a picnic lunch with a bottle of local wine and cheese and languish in the sun as you take in the majestic panoramic views.

Then going inland there is the prized green jewel of the island, Terceira Nature Park and Reserve. It occupies about 22% of the island with an abundance of beautiful hiking trails as well as the remarkable volcano vent of Algar do Carvão where you can take a magnificent walk down 338 steps (330 feet) into the volcano’s pit.

Another other worldly site, and must see in the Park is the Gruta do Natal which is a volcanic lava tube, also known as “Christmas Cave”. We are told that was it was most likely formed by the lava flow from a neighboring eruption. You can actually walk inside and along this dark and mysterious dark lava tube (wearing a hard hat and carrying a light) to explore the many complex geological structures.

Terceira being an island in the Atlantic gives you the opportunity to go on Whale Watch and Dolphin excursions and naturalist boat tours, weather permitting. There are also historic city tours of food, wine, and dairy products. A favorite of mine, not to be missed, is a walk up through the Botanical Garden of Angra, also called The Duke of Terceira Garden. This classic garden is located right in the middle of the historic center of Angra and contains an organic vegan restaurant with a phenomenal view, Casa do Jardim. You can stop here for a meal, or just have a coffee or a drink. Time spent lingering in this botanical garden is a welcome pause that envelops you in a peaceful setting of nature as far as the eye can see, including distant vistas of the sea.

For lodging there are almost too many great choices. You will find many hotels in Angra that sit above, yet close to the sea with expansive views, but the really special pick for me is the Pousada de Angra do Heroismo-Forte Sao Sebastiao. The Pousada is a historic property dating all the way back to 1555, a cliff-top fortress surrounded by high stone walls that enclose a beautiful green property sitting alongside the sea. It has been modernized and is welcoming for its 21st century guests complete with seaside pool, restaurant, bar and a staff that makes you feel like you have come home.

Then there are the people, the traditions, the haunting FADO music, and all things Portuguese that pull you close. These are the jewels of Terceira. For me, it always comes back to the people, regardless of destination. This is my yardstick, the people, their smile, their kindness to a visiting stranger, their fierce pride for their heartland, and their genuine warmth that turns a visit into something much more valuable, a cherished memory. Love to you beautiful Terceira, you are truly magnificent, obrigada!

Terceira, an extraordinary destination…another difficult goodbye.